Inspiration board
- Related blog post -
Bath time has never been so luxurious
February 17, 2017
Over the last 60 years we have seen huge change in décor, design and technology throughout the whole house. Bathrooms are one room that many don’t consider to be a place to show off design flair, but more and more people are proving that a bathroom can be a whole lot more than a room of function...
Price guideline
Bathrooms are an area worth not taking the lowest price for unless you are sure they will do a proper job. You can have all sorts of water and tile cracking issues if the job is bodged:
- A facelift of an existing bathroom should cost between $5,000 - $15,000, or if your bathroom is small, and you want nothing too fancy, this should cover a rip out, rebuild.
A medium sized bathroom renovation with a few extra upgrades will set you back between $15,000 - $25,000. It may not be the best of everything, but for this price bracket, if you choose well, you can make a beautiful bathroom.
You can expect to pay from $25,000 to how ever much you want on a large extravagant bathroom with all the trimmings. There are so many beautiful options for tiles and bathroom accessories that can allow you to run with your imagination and create something that makes a real statement.
Recipe for a successful bathroom build
Difficulty
3.5 / 5
Time
15 - 30 Days
Budget
$7000 - 28000
- Who you will need -
- 1 Demo team
- 1 Renderer (or plasterer if timber frame walls)
- 1 Waterproofer
- 1 Plumber
- 1 Electrician
- 1 Tiler
- 1 Gyprocker
- 1 Painter
[Optional: 1 Glazier | 1 Joiner or cabinet maker | 1 carpenter]
- Method -
Demolition
Step 1/8
First off, for a full renovation of your bathroom, you will need to rip out the old one, tiles and all. This can be completed by a demolition team, or a building team. A small to medium bathroom can take one to three days for one person depending on whether the tiles come off easily or not.
Set the walls
Step 2/8
Once the full bathroom is bare, depending on if you have brick rendered wall or timber frame you will need a renderer to patch any holes made by the demo. If your bathroom is timber frame, you will need someone to have make sure your framing and floor is solid, with no rot or termite damaged. If your structure is not completely solid, you will get cracking in your new tiles and quite possibly your waterproofing could fail. This is also the time to build any additional stud walls if needed i.e. shower or toilet screen. If you have timber frame, your carpenter should be able to fit fibre cement sheeting ready for setting.
Prepare the electricity and the plumbing
Step 3/8
Whilst your room is bare, it is the best time to get your plumber and electrician in for their first visit. They need to chase in their pipes to the walls or against the framework and run wires for power points, lighting and heating. Also floor waste, shower waste, toilet and sink waste will need to be plumbed in before anything else goes ahead.
[Setting walls for timber frame only]
Step 4 bis
For a timber framed bathroom, once your fibre cement sheeting is on the walls, you will need a plasterer to set the walls. Setting the walls just means filling holes from nails and placing a band over joins and corners so there are no holes in your room before waterproofing. If you can have a Gyprocker do the setting, then they can also do your ceiling at the same time.
Waterproofing
Step 4/8
Waterproofing takes time and is vital it is done properly. Hire a qualified waterproofer to prime the floor and walls around i say around 200mm above and around anywhere that could get wet i.e. bath, shower head, sink, 200mm up the walls from the floor everywhere else, this should insure a good watertight wet room. Once primed, a bond breaker must be placed on any internal corners (between floor and wall) around the full bathroom. This is usually done with Sikaflex and it means the waterproofing will not crack on the corners. After this, the first layer of waterproofing can be thickly applied.
Screeding
Step 5/8
Now screeding can be commence. Screeding is a semi dry sand, cement and water mix to go on the floor that gives the floor fall in places that will get wet, small step lips into the shower and a bedding for strip drains etc. This is usually done by your tiler.
Last coats of waterproofing
Step 6/8
Once you tiler is finished screeding, you can re prime and waterproof another two coats. Ensure waterproofing is dry between applications everything that needs waterproofing is well coated.
Tiling
Step 7/8
Now your tiler can come back and tile the full bathroom. Tile choices are one of the components for pushing your budget a lot higher than expected, so choose wisely. You can also have your ceiling painted ready for lights to go in.
Install appliances
Step 8/8
Once your tiles are all set and grout and glue are dry, you can get your plumber to come back and finish installing all PC items and your cabinet maker to install your chosen vanity. Also, your electrician can fit lights, power points and heated towel rails etc.
[for glass screen only]
Step 8 Bis
If you are having a glass blade as your shower screen, you will need your glazier to fit your pre measured glass to ensure it’s strong and safe.
- Tip -
"Bring your tiles all the way to the top before the ceiling gets gyprocked. Then finish the ceiling using P50 shadow line. This will add a really nice detail to your bathroom, for only a few extra $"
Enjoy a new bathroom
Manage your full project like a boss
Sylky Property Limited